Organically grown wines are not only healthier for the planet they also taste great, says SAM HARROP MW With such luminaries as Tony Blair and Al Gore now firmly perched on their global-warming soapboxes, the world seems to be taking the environment a little more seriously. This is not only good news for our collective future, but it could well be good news for wine enthusiasts, as many experts believe that wine made from organically grown grapes is more complex. As recently as the 1940s, grape-growing practices for wine production were pretty much organic. Farmers worked tirelessly in the fields to combat disease, weeds and other pests of the vine. Synthetic pesticides and weed-killers were unheard of, let alone the notion of an automated spraying machine blasting everything in its path. So when and how did it all change? In the 1950s scientists began to employ dangerous chemicals – many of them developed for war use – in agriculture. It wasn't long before big business caught on and started to peddle these toxins to farmers. With promises of greater yields and profit margins, it's not surprising that the wine industry was an early adopter. And so began the era of dependence: fertilisers for improving crop levels, pesticides to kill disease on the vine canopy and herbicides to snuff out weed growth. The result over decades has been one of dramatic change as the natural balance of the vine was disrupted. Five decades later and it is not only the vines' ecosystem that has been altered in this epoch of agrochemicals. With some vineyard soils almost as dead as the Sahara, there are few (if any) micro-organisms left to break down chemicals. Aside from the obvious environmental issues there are also health risks associated with chemical use. Excessive or irresponsible timing of sprays can lead to residues passing into fruit and end up in the finished wine. Although difficult to prove, many advocates of the more natural approach to grape growing believe that fruit taken from vineyards saturated in chemicals lacks the flavour, balance and personality of those farmed in a more natural style. Fortunately however, throughout the world there are ever more producers rejecting the chemical approach and opting for more organic viniculture. The strict doctrine followed by organic grape growers does not allow the use of synthetic chemicals in vineyard management in an effort to improve life in the soil. While some natural chemicals are permitted to combat critical pests, there are strict controls on timing of sprays and application rates. Areas such as Alsace, the Loire and parts of Burgundy are going even further and adopting a more extreme form of the organic method, termed 'biodynamics'. This approach takes an almost homoeopathic view of vine health, managing the vineyard in accordance with the position of the sun, the moon, the planets and the earth in an effort to re-establish a balanced and healthy ecosystem. While biodynamics has been criticised for its lack of scientific basis, in recent years many acclaimed European wineries have adopted these techniques to improve quality. A more commercial natural approach to viticulture is 'integrated pest management' (or the 'sustainable' approach as it is called in New Zealand). A responsible and commercial form of conventional vineyard management, it takes a scientific approach to improving biodiversity and balance in the vineyard by monitoring pest populations and spraying only in periods of disease pressure (rather than by calendar). This results in much lower chemical use overall – good news for both the environment and for wine quality. Currently a staggering 65% of all vineyards in New Zealand are certified sustainable. So with these seemingly preferable approaches available, why is it that grape growers and wineries are not falling over themselves to convert and capitalise on the world's current obsession with all things eco-friendly? There is no question that the wine industry is in a good position to move towards more organic approaches. Most of the world's vineyards are planted in drier regions in recognition of the vines' preference for dry conditions; and these regions have fewer pests than conventional wisdom might have us believe. As the world embarks on its collective drive towards more sustainable options, it's encouraging to see at least a small percentage of grape growers following suit but the industry can and should be leading the way, so that other agricultural sectors might be inspired to go green as well. Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2005 A sensational bouquet of delicate citrus and floral notes entwined with a flinty quality that adds greatly to the complexity of the wine. On the palate the flavours explode and are lifted by a wonderful backbone of acidity. 2005 was a great vintage and this wine offers superb drinking now, but will continue to improve for at least 10–12 years. Cullen Chardonnay 2004 Cullen is one of the most dynamic wineries in Margaret River and has an international cult following. Intense pineapple and stone-fruit characters leap out of the glass and are well integrated with the vanilla notes that come with barrel fermentation. Although the alcohol is quite high at 14% it is hardly noticeable and the palate is still crisp and lively, unlike most Aussie Chardonnays after two years in the bottle. Rippon Pinot Noir 2003 One of the most elegant and Burgundy-like New World Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. Delicate candied strawberry flavours are supported by background roasted peanut notes on the bouquet. These flavours follow through to the palate that has a silk-lined texture, born from ripe tannins and delicate winemaking. While it is still relatively youthful it is showing aged qualities and this makes for great drinking right now.