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April 2008


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INDULGENCES - Sherry

A new look at an old tipple

SOME SHERRY STYLES WORTH A TRY

Fino: is the driest and palest of the traditional varieties of sherry. It should be drunk comparatively young to be enjoyed at its best, and ideally within a couple of days after the bottle is opened. It is a classic aperitif, but also works very well with seafood.
Manzanilla: is a variety of fino made around the port of Sanlúcar de Barremeda. It has an intense salty flavour, that comes from the yeast in the process that thrives in the coastal town’s humid conditions. Fantastic with garlicky king prawns or manchego.
Amontillado: begins as a fino, but undergoes additional fortification and time in oak casks to give it darker colouring and richer flavouring. amontillados are dry like fino, but have more complexity and richness of flavour – closer to that observed in the oloroso style.
Oloroso: has the distinctive sweetness traditionally associated, especially in the UK, with sherry. It is produced by oxidative aging, is usually darker and smoother than an Amontillado and has a richer, nuttier flavour. It can be aged for decades in cask to improve the flavour and depth of colour. Enjoy after a sumptuous main course – dessert wines don’t get much better than this.

‘La Gitana’ Manzanilla
Bodegas
Hidalgo €8-12

Mineral salty, citrus and chamomile tea notes follow through to the palate that is both concentrated and crisp with a lingering almost oceanic, almond-like finish. Much of the flavour is thought to come from the sea breezes and coastal soils on which the grapes thrive. Served chilled there are few better wines to be served before barbecued seafood and complementary salad on a hot summer’s day.

‘Del Duque’ Amontillado
Gonzalez
Byass €18-22

The bouquet shows toasty cedar and coconut notes alongside brambly, toffee apples. These flavours are joined by a salty floral aroma, seen often in fino and amontillado Sherries. The palate has a rich attack and has spent decades in oak casks maturing and gaining complexity. These ripe flavours are joined by a superb tangy quality. A firm acidity cuts through the palate providing balance and length so that the mineral and nutty flavours linger for some time.

‘Don Nuño’ Dry Oloroso
Lustau
€18-22

Cinnamon, clove, molasses and candied oranges leap from the glass providing a decadent first impression of this sensational dry oloroso. On the palate, the weight and richness that the nose first promises are no where to be seen in this drier style. Far from being a disappointment, this dryness is its charm, making it a fine wine for a hearty winter casserole. A wonderful wine, unique in all respects, that deserves a great deal more respect than the market gives it.


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