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December 2008


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Champagne

Sam Harrop picks festive fizz of the highest order

Krug Vintage 
1998 Brut

Hailing from one of the most famous Champagne houses, this wine has a reputation to uphold — and uphold it does. Fresh Granny Smith apples, toasted almonds and Devonshire cream linger for an eternity. Hugely complex, with ample weight and concentration. While this wine 
exhibits obvious bottle development, it still has a vibrancy and freshness. Drink now or let it improve with another five years. €180

Champagne 
Fleury 1995 Brut

As one of the few biodynamic Champagne houses, Fleury is known for its extremely natural and individual wines. This wine shows apple strudel, orange peel and freshly toasted hazelnuts. A bold sparkler with wonderful acidity and a 
sherbet-like twist towards the end of the palate. Plenty of richness, complexity and length. Drink now! €50

Bollinger La Grande 
Année 1999 Brut 

A bouquet of immense definition and class. Apple crumble, candied grapefruit and limes, and white floral perfume. A lush attack to the palate and a silky harmonious texture wrapped around a brazen line of acidity that carries the palate flavours for some way. Serious stuff. Hold for five to seven years. €140 


Pol Roger Cuvee 
Sir Winston Churchill 1998 Brut 

Like the old knight himself, full of character and charm. A classic vintage Champagne of wonderful pedigree. Ripe, plump and fresh with orange peel and even some notes of early-picked apricot, elderflower and biscotti. Exotic and atypical of Champagne, 
but delightful nonetheless. 
Sir Winston would certainly 
have approved. €95

Laurent-Perrier 
Grand Siècle Brut 

A delightfully intriguing bouquet withextreme minerality. Akin to a Grand Cru Chablis, but with bubbles! Gunflint and lemon 
zest sit alongside a pungent, white floral note. Not a showy wine, but extremely elegant with chalky acidity that races down the palate. Lovely in youth, but one wonders just how good it could be in 10 years.
 €90 


Sam Harrop MW


Sam Harrop is a leading consultant winemaker. He currently has winery clients in Portugal, Spain and France, and is co-chair of the International Wine Challenge, one of the world’s largest and most influential wine competitions. Initially trained in New Zealand followed by California, he was subsequently wine buyer for UK supermarket Marks & Spencer, soon becoming the youngest Master of Wine of his generation. He is a great advocate of biodynamic wine production.






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